Bathroom Sinks

Home Building - Bathroom Sinks & Lavatories
By: Tammy Crosby




Bathroom sinks, also called lavatories, are available in an infinite range of colors, patterns, styles, designs, heights, depths, widths, and materials. They can be pedestal style, wall hung, under-counter mount, above counter vessels, integrated, self-rimming, or freestanding. This variety affords you a great opportunity to express yourself.

Materials

Sinks are available in many materials including vitreous china, enameled cast iron, fireclay, glass, stainless steel, brass, nickel, copper, marble, and both real and synthetic stone. Each material has its own unique characteristics.

Clay is one of the oldest material used for sinks, but can be chipped or broken.

Earthenware has a very porous clay body and is usually glazed and decoratively painted. Because it tends to crackle over time, most people opt to use china and cast iron.

Fireclay, which is sometimes called ceramic offers a smooth, non-porous surface that won't fade, discolor or rust. These sinks can be plain, sculpted, or hand-painted to produce many different looks.

Vitreous China is an earthenware product that is cast and glazed to provide a glossy, durable and stain-resistant surface. It is available in many different colors, as well as in hand painted, etched, hammered, matte, and carved finishes.

Glass and crystal sinks are the hottest trend in high end bathrooms. They are available in vessel, pedestal, wall mount, over-the-counter and under-the-counter models. While glass sinks are a little more durable than you may think, they will and do break. Visually your bathroom sink may be stunning, but practical it is not. Even the best of tempered and laminated glass will crack and break - the only comforting thing about it is it won't shatter into a million pieces. Glass sinks come in a variety of finishes like textured, colored, frosted and etched. If it's a must have on your design list then caution would be the advice of the day.

Metal is the most durable of the sink materials and is available in stainless steel, cast iron, copper, brass or a combination of these metals. (see kitchen sink materials for more information)

Styles

Pedestal sinks feature a basin that rests on a pedestal base to conceal the drain and supply lines. They are generally made from vitreous china, but can be found in porcelain coated steel. They may look good, but the provide basically no counter or storage space. Because pedestal sinks require specific placement of supply and drainage lines, it is best to select your sink before construction of your bathroom begins.

Vessels are very elegant and usually made from spun glass, lead crystal, china, fireclay, earthenware, cast iron and stainless steel. Vessels can rest above the countertop, be wall-mounted or installed in a self-rimming application or under-the-counter. Because these vessels are usually fully exposed it's not the type of sink you want in the family bathroom.

Wall-mount sinks feature a basin that is hung from the wall at a desired, functional height. They can be mounted flush to the wall, recessed or semi-recessed. They are available in a wide range of sizes, including small hand sinks, but afford little to no storage space.

Self-rimming sinks are the least expensive and most common option. It edges lap the countertop.

Undermounted and integral sinks are sinks where the edges are hidden. Undermounted sinks attach below the countertop. An integral sink is made out of the same material as the countertop and is fused to it, creating a seamless transition. Stainless steel, solid surface, and composite materials are flexible enough to mold integral sinks. The benefits of both these sinks is that they give a clean look and provide easy cleanup - no rims to push crumbs over.


About The Author

Tammy Crosby - Editor, Dream Designs
http://www.thehousedesigners.com/ are independent architects and designers who joined together to provide you the best home plans at the best price.

Grout Cleaning Made Easy

By: Bobby Walker




Have you ever tried to clean tile and grout yourself? If you have, you know how time consuming and labor intensive it can be! If it is within your budget, I would seriously consider letting a trained professional handle this chore for you. However, if you simply can't afford the .50 sq. ft. that most companies charge, there is a way to effectively clean your own tile and grout without breaking the bank.

Your main focus should be on choosing quality products to make your job as easy as possible. Having these materials will literally save your hours of time and labor. Hopefully, you already have some of these items tucked away in your garage somewhere just waiting to be found. Of course, anything that you don't have can be purchased at your local Home Depot store.

Sulfamic Acid
Citrus Degreaser
Chemical Pump Up Sprayer
Grout Cleaning Brush w/pole
Mop and Bucket
Masking Tape
Shop Vac w/attachments
Brass Bristle Toothbrush
Latex Rubber Gloves
White Vinegar
Disposable Shop Towels

Before cleaning, you should measure the sq. ft. of the floor you are cleaning as you will need this information so you buy enough sulfamic acid to clean with. Cover any stainless steel appliances with several rows of masking tape or plastic wrap to keep the acid from etching the stainless and ruining the cosmetic appearance of your appliances. Dust mop and sweep your tile to remove large debris and dust from the floor. Mix your mop bucket with 4 oz. of white vinegar for each gallon of water used. Make sure your mop head is brand new, so you won't smear any dirty water on your clean floor. You will use your mop to help clean up the acid after scrubbing the grout.

Mix your sulfamic acid with water in your pump up sprayer according to directions, wearing rubber gloves. You should have at least a 2 gallon sprayer as this will cover around 700 to 1000 sq. ft. of tile when mixed 50/50, We recommend the powdered crystal acid from Home Depot. I have personally used this on many of my jobs when my chemical supply company was out of my regular brand. You can also use the brand I currently clean with called StoneTech Restore. Either way, you want a 50/50 mix ratio, half water and half acid as this is most effective.

Set your pump sprayer nozzle until it becomes more of a mist than a stream. Do not pump up with too much pressure, it will splatter on everything if you do. Just enough to make a mist when you squeeze the trigger. Spray about 50 sq. ft. completely covering all the tile and grout lines. Do not spray a larger area than this when cleaning, the floor must stay wet or you will have to repeat the process if it dries before you are finished cleaning.


Using a grout cleaning brush w/handle, start at one side of the tile cleaning all the vertical grout lines with a back and forth cleaning motion, using short strokes, while slowly walking forward. Then clean all the horizontal grout lines using the same method. Cleaning the grout lines this way is less confusing and will prevent you from missing some of the area. You may need to scrub dirty areas longer or use a citrus degreaser in a spray bottle using a brass bristle toothbrush to help remove stubborn areas that aren't coming clean right away. Make sure your brush is on a handle to keep you off your hands and knees.

After the area is clean, use your shop vac to remove the dirt and acid from the floor before it dries. Make sure you vacuum very well and don't leave any dirty residue behind. Once you have cleaned up with your shop vac, you are ready to mop with your vinegar and water solution. This rinses off any of the remaining acid and dirt from the tile. Placing a fan on the floor after you have finished will help the floor dry faster. You may not notice a huge difference in the grout lines until they have fully dried, which takes a few hours sometimes because of how porous the grout is. You are now ready to repeat the process on your next 50 sq. ft. of tile and grout.


About The Author

Bobby Walker is a 14 year cleaning industry veteran who owns and operates Carpet Cleaning of Dallas, a carpet, tile and upholstery restoration company. He is also a webmaster for 4 websites, including 2 do it yourself sites. His passion for helping people has been his motivating factor for his love of the service industry.

http://www.groutcleaningtips.com/

http://www.spotcleaningtips.com

Bathroom Counter Tops

Granite is Tough; Taking Correct Care of It Isn't
By: Edward Green



Crystal like granite countertops and spa type bathrooms built with natural stone are all the rage in home interiors, but not surprisingly it will lose its investment value fast if not properly maintained.

Up to now, only ammonia based cleaners were the granite cleaning choice outside of soap and water for homeowners, regardless of the fact that these products in reality damage natural stone.

Marble Master’s stone cleaning product line safely cleans and conditions countertops, floors and wall surrounds made of granite, marble, travertine and other natural stone. For more information, visit www.marblemasteruk.com

"Ammonia-based products remove the seal of natural stone, allowing stains to penetrate the surface and set more easily," said Edward Green, Technical Director of Marble Master. "The damage caused by these products increases the chance that the stone will have to be refurbished or replaced, which is a costly undertaking."

Natural stone is hard-wearing, but still needs appropriate care to continue its inherent beauty. When treated correctly, it is a low maintenance surface that will hold its gleam longer than any other surface known to man, and can enhance the value of your home.

Marble Master's set of non ammoniated, inexpensive products features its Daily Cleaner, Daily Cleaner Wipes, Polish/Protector, Stone Soap and Penetrating Sealers. The line protects and extends the life of stone countertops and gives customers high quality cleaning power. The line is non toxic, safe on all food preparation surfaces, features a streak-free formula and is easy to use.

Marble Master Products are also effective when used on natural quartz surfaces and engineered stone and can be safely used on ceramics or porcelain tile and grout. This exclusive product line, which contains the highest grade of quality ingredients, is user friendly, non toxic and safe for the environment.

The Marble Master Stone Care System is specially formulated and developed by stone care professionals with more than 40 years of experience in the natural stone industry. For more information or to purchase the products, visit www.marblemasteruk.com or call 020 8807 8889.

You may publish this article in your ezine, newsletter on your web site as long as the byline is included and the article is included in it's entirety. I also ask that you activate any html links found in the article and in the byline. Please send a courtesy link or email where you publish to: support@marblemasteruk.com

Website: http://www.marblemasteruk.com/

About The Author


Edward Green owns and operates the highly successful Marble Master Ltd company. Marble Master specializes in Restoration and Refinishing of all types of natural stone and consultancy services to Architects, Restoration Companies and Interior Designers.

Bathroom Fixer uppers

Things That Add Value To Your Fixer-Upper Home
by: Sarah Miller

http://homebuyerguide.blogspot.com/ http://houseideas4u.blogspot.com/

Things that add value to your fixer-upper home

Fixer-upper homes apparently need a lot of work to increase their market value. What things should you do to really make the most out of your renovation efforts thus increasing the value of your fixer-upper home?

Pristine walls – Fixing up your walls is an inexpensive way to increase the value of your fixer-upper homer. You can do the paint job yourself. Choose colors that will make the house “look expensive”.

Renovate the bathroom – It is known fact that a great bathroom will increase the value of any house. Homebuyers tend to take a look at the bathroom first so focusing on renovating this part of the house is a must. Adding another bathroom in the house can further increase its value.

Renovate the kitchen – Aside from the bathroom the kitchen is another part of the house that can increase its value. Home buyers, especially the ladies, take this as a major factor when considering buying a home.

Improve landscaping – Taking care of the lawn and making it look attractive will add to the value of your fixer-upper home. You don't need to hire professional landscapers to improve its appearance.

Don’t overlook the garage, closets and laundry – These three parts of the house are most of the time overlooked. As simple as them may seem, they can increase the value of the fixer-upper home because it adds convenience. Bedrooms with spacious closets are always attractive. Garage and pathway maintenance is also important. Lastly, a house with a laundry room will also increase its value.

Maintain windows – Cleaning your windows every now and then will help maintain its good condition. This won't increase the house’s value but it will help in maintaining its current value.

Change carpets – Nothing is more unappealing than dirty and stinky carpets. Carpets tend to acquire a lot of dirt and cleaning old carpet may not do the trick. What you want to do is change the entire carpeting for the house. This will make a big difference.

Remove clutter – Throw away excessive things that are eye sores. Excessive junk can make a house less appealing and lower its value.

In general, you should fix up the exterior first because this is what people see first and it will give them an impression that your house is a keeper and is of high value. This doesn’t mean that you should ignore the interior. Bottom-line, the most important part of the house that you should focus on to increase a fixer-upper home’s value are the bathroom and the kitchen.


About The Author

The above article was written by Sarah Miller on behalf of a buzzing online Home Improvement community where homeowners easily and painlessly find the right contractor for their home improvement projects and in turn, contractors can find the right Home Improvement Leads! Also check out the http://quotecity.com/ Blog for more related Home Improvement Articles and Ideas.

Installing Drywall: Mudding and Taping

By: Mark J. Donovan
Installing Drywall, or hanging drywall as the professionals usually refer to the task, can be done by the homeowner. However, it is usually best done with two or more people as it requires significant lifting of heavy material. Mudding and Taping can also be performed by the homeowner, however these tasks require some practice and artistry.
Measuring and Ordering Drywall
Prior to actually hanging the drywall, the material first needs to be ordered and delivered. To determine how much material to order, measure all of the surface area, starting with the ceilings and then the walls. Calculate the total square feet and divide by 32. The result should give you the number of 4’x 8’ sheets of drywall required for the job. I would also recommend adding another 5-10% to this figure to account for inefficiencies. Drywall does come in larger sheets, such as 4’x12’, however for a Do-it-Yourself homeowner these larger sheets can become unwieldy and maybe even impossible to bring into the existing home.
For bathrooms or other moist areas Greenboard should probably be used as this material is moisture resistance.
For bathroom areas where ceramic tile is to be applied, e.g. Shower/Bathtub areas, Concrete board should be used. The concrete board is also referred to as Wonderboard or Durock.
Joint Compound and Fiberglass tape will also be required for Taping and Mudding. Joint Compound typically comes ready-mixed in 5 gallon containers. I would suggest 1-2 containers per 500 square feet of drywall. Fiberglass tape is quite inexpensive so I would suggest picking up 2 to 3 roles for most Do-it-Yourself drywall projects.
Drywall screws or ringed nails will also be required. Typically I use 1.25” length screws or nails. Also, strips of corner bead will be required.
Drywall Tools
Prior to starting drywall installation, you need to obtain the proper tools. A Drywall Lift really comes in handy when hanging sheetrock/drywall on the ceilings. You can rent Drywall Lifts at hardware or home improvement stores. If your budget does not allow for this cost, Jacks (or Ts) can be made out of 2”x 4”s. The Jacks (or Ts) should be of a length such that they are just an inch or two taller than the height of the ceiling and have a cross beam that is approximately 3’ in width. Usually there are a couple of 45o angle braces connecting the crossbar to the main stem of the Jack. The Jack can then be used to hold up the drywall to the ceiling while it is screwed/nailed into place.
In addition to the Lift or Jacks, a drywall screw gun, hammer, T-square, carpenters knife, drywall saw and a keyhole saw are required. The keyhole saw is used for cutting around electrical boxes.
If mudding and taping are to be performed then Taping knifes, a Corner knife, sand paper, a pole sander and a Mud easel or pan will be necessary. For the taping knifes you will need a 6” wide blade and a 12” wide blade.
Preparing the site for Drywall
Prior to hanging the drywall, make sure the building inspector has first approved the Framing, Plumbing, Electrical and Insulation jobs. Secondly, a vapor barrier should be applied over the insulation on the outside walls if un-faced insulation was installed. Frequently sheets of plastic are used for creating the vapor barrier. The plastic is simply stapled to the framing, covering the insulation.
Finally, inspect all of the framing carefully. Ensure that nailers (e.g. 2” x 4”s) are existent at each corner and header, that the framing is straight, and that the framed walls create smooth planes. In addition, the ceiling should have strapping applied (1” x 3” cross boards). Also, make sure metal protection plates have been installed to studding where sheetrock screws or nails could inadvertently penetrate plumbing pipes or electrical wire.
Safety
Drywall installation is dirty, heavy work. The Gypsum in drywall can be irritating to the eyes, lungs and sinuses so wear safety goggles and masks to avoid breathing in the material. Gloves are also recommended to protect against sharp blades.
Installing Drywall
Start with the ceiling as this will allow the sheets on the walls to help hold the sheets on the ceiling. Use the Drywall lift or Jacks to hold the sheets in place while screwing or nailing them to the ceiling. The screws or nails should be installed such that they are slightly recessed and create a small dimple without breaking the paper. Screws or nails should be applied every 8 to 12 inches on each stud. Screws are typically stronger and can be placed further apart, e.g. 12 inches. It is best to fasten the screws/nails to the edges of the drywall first and then fill in the field afterwards.
Rows of drywall should be applied in a staggered pattern. This will create an interlocked pattern that creates a tighter and stronger ceiling/wall.
After the ceiling has been completed it its time to move on to the walls. Drywall should be applied from the top down, with the sheets hung perpendicular to the floor joists or studs. Again the rows should be staggered. The bottom piece should sit about ½ inches from the sub-floor.
For purposes of efficiency and strength it is best to apply the large sheets of drywall over the doors and window openings and cut out the excess later. This will create stronger/cleaner looking walls and save significant time.
Installing Corner bead
Once the drywall has been installed, corner bead should be applied to all outside edges. Corner bead should be nailed every 6-8 inches and penetrate the framing.
Taping and Mudding
Again start with the ceiling. Apply a skim coat of joint compound over the surface of a seam using a 6” wide taping knife. If the seam is wide, apply a liberal amount of joint compound to fill it. While the Joint compound is still wet, apply the fiberglass tape over the skim coat of Joint Compound. Make sure the seam is centered under the tape. Once the tape has been installed, apply additional Joint Compound over the tape, again using the 6” wide taping knife. Continue this for all of the seams. Note: the tape will still be visible. Additional coats will eventually hide it.
The inside corners are usually the most tricky and require practice. Patience is the best advice and note that additional coats will be applied later to smooth out any imperfections.
Once the seams are done, using the 6” wide taping knife, apply mud to all of the screw/nail dimples. A skim coat is all that is initially required.
Note: When applying the mud over the tape and screw/nail dimples, make sure all excess material and uneven patches are smoothed down with the blade. This will reduce sanding later.
Once the ceiling is done, you can move on to the walls. Repeat the same process, however with the outside corners just apply a liberal coat of joint compound to the valley that is formed by the corner bead. This valley typically represents the first 3 or 4 inches from the edge of the corner.
Once the first coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the second application of Joint compound. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day.
Applying the Second Coat of Mud
After the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the second coat of mud. It is this coat that should hide the tape.
Again, start with the ceiling. Using the wider taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound over the taped seams as you want to build up the area over the tape. Taking large strokes smooth the joint compound over the tape applying more pressure to the side of the taping knife further away from the tape. This will help to leave more mud over the tape. When complete, the mud should cover an area that extends beyond the width of the tape by 2 to 3 inches.
After the seams have all been completed, apply a second coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 3-4 inches in diameter.
For the inside corners a Corner knife may come in handy. Corners involve a little artistry so again take your time. Apply a generous amount of joint compound and then run the Corner knife down the corner starting from the top. Take long, even strokes. A 6” taping knife may also be helpful to smooth out any imperfections.
For the outside corners, using the broad taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound and flare out the material such that it extends out 6 inches or so from the corner. Again, apply more pressure to the blade side that is further away from the corner so that you leave more mud nearer the outside corner.
Once the second coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the final application of Joint compound. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day.
Applying the Final Coat of Mud
After the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the final coat of mud. It is this coat that requires the most artistry and the least amount of joint compound. Here you are simply applying a final skim coat to the already mudded areas.
Prior to applying the skim coat it is best to take your wide taping blade and lightly pass over the mudded surfaces. This will remove any bumps or ridges.
Again start with the ceiling seams and apply a small amount of joint compound using the broad taping knife. Again continue to flare out the seam by extending the mudded area such that about 6 inches resides on each side of the now invisible tape. Remember this is a skim coat so little mud is required. The purpose of this coat is to effectively fill in any lines or recessed areas.
After the seams have all been completed, apply a final coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 6-8 inches in diameter.
For the corners use the broad taping knife and add just enough mud such that you can flare out the mudded surface area to about 8-12 inches, taking care to filling in any lines or dimples.
Once the final coat has been applied let it rest overnight or until it is dry,
Sanding
Sanding is a very dusty and dirty mess so please uses goggles and a mask. I find it best to use a pole sander with an open screened sand paper material specifically designed for sanding sheetrock/drywall mud.
Lightly sand all of the taped areas, however concentrate sanding on the outer edges of the mudded areas such that all seams and ridges are eliminated and blend into the main surface areas.
Once sanding is complete, vacuum up the dust and you are ready for priming and painting the walls and texturing the ceilings.
About The Author
Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more home improvement information visit http://www.homeadditionplus.com/ and http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com/.

Bathroom Remodeling Don’ts

- What Not To Do
By: Frank Johnson




Bathroom remodeling takes time, careful planning, and precise execution. The objective of a bathroom remodel is to upgrade the appearance of your bathroom with the latest bathroom fixtures, designs, and styles. However, bathroom remodeling can be a bit overwhelming. Even if you don’t install your new fixtures and furnishings yourself, simply selecting that perfect bathroom vanity, sink, and mirror can be more complicate than you think, especially if you’ve never remodeled a bathroom before.

Below are a few tips on what NOT to do when remodeling your bathroom. Use these tips to avoid common mistakes and ensure that the look you intend for your bathroom is actually what turns out.

Bathroom Remodeling Tip #1: Don’t Wing It

Some people think that remodeling a bathroom is a piece of cake and simply involves swapping out an old sink or vanity with a new one; however, because the bathroom involves plumbing, you need to carefully plan out your remodel. You need to make sure the new fixtures you select fit the space and the plumbing of your bathroom, or at least understand that rearranging the layout of your bathroom may involve rerouting some pipes (which is an arduous task). So, before you even think about the new vanity or sink you want to buy, establish the basic layout of your new bathroom. If the layout is staying the same, take note of the plumbing layout and keep that in mind when you’re shopping for a new sink, toilet, or vanity. If you’re rearranging a few items, draw out how you want your bathroom to look, measure everything to make sure your vision is realistic, and then see if you need to reroute any plumbing. In some cases, you won’t know if your new bathroom layout will call for new plumbing to be installed, so call a plumber and get his/her professional opinion. After you’ve mapped everything out and established the basic layout of your new bathroom design, then you can start shopping for your new lavish bathroom furnishings.

Bathroom Remodeling Tip #2: Don’t Buy the First Thing You See

The key to successfully remodeling your bathroom is to shop around. You never want to buy the first thing you find. If you’re not already set on a specific vanity or sink design, go online and check out the latest bathroom furnishings. This way, you’ll get a better idea of the number of different styles available without having to leave your home. Shopping around will also give you the opportunity to comparison shop. Today, modern bathroom furnishings are more available and affordable than ever before. Thanks to wholesalers who purchase bathroom furnishings in bulk, you can get that elegant vessel sink you’ve always wanted at a price that won’t bust your remodeling budget. Before you buy, you better shop around.

Bathroom Remodeling Tip #3: If Don’t Know, Don’t Install It Yourself

Getting a new toilet is a different experience from getting a new bed. With a bed, you pay the extra $50 to get it delivered and put in your home. However, with a toilet, getting it delivered and put in your home is only the beginning. Bathroom remodeling almost always involves plumbing work. Even if you aren’t rerouting pipes or drainage systems, installing new bathroom fixtures (such as a toilet, sink, and faucet) takes a little plumbing know-how. However, not all of us are as “handy” as we would like to be. And when you’re dealing with running water, it’s important to know how to properly uninstall and install bathroom fixtures. So, if you’re a novice at plumbing, call a professional. Many bathroom remodeling shops offer installation with the purchase of their products (for an added fee) or know of plumbers in your area who can install your new bathroom fixtures for you. Either way, if you’ve never installed a toilet, sink, or faucet, or had a bad previous experience with plumbing, it’s worth the money to have your new bathroom furnishings installed right.

When it comes to bathroom remodeling, it’s very important to plan out your new layout, shop around, and install your new bathroom furnishings properly. Failing to do so could cost you more money in the long run and result in a less-than-perfect remodel.


About The Author

Modern Bathroom offers the latest bathroom furnishings and fixtures at discount prices. From contemporary bathroom sinks to modern bathroom vanities, you’ll find the bathroom furnishings you need for less at http://www.modernbathroom.com/

Bathroom Wall Cabinet Choices

By: Delbert Parkison




When you want a bathroom that is decorative, beautiful, and simplistic, you want appliances for that bathroom that reflect the most functional beauty they can reflect. This is not always a simplistic task, but there are some ways that are easier to accomplish this goal than others. For example, a bathroom wall cabinet is a great way to have added beauty and functionality to any bathroom. However, since it is not always the easiest of appliances to replace, many people do not think about this as a home décor option.

A bathroom wall cabinet is usually built into a wall, but this is not always the case. Sometimes, these cabinets hang from the wall via a mounting system you or the previous people installed. You have a lot of choices to choose from either way, but it is significantly easier to work with one that is mounted on the outside of the wall and not built in as may be the case. Go ahead, find out if you have an inny or an outy.

Well, now that you know there are a few ways to proceed. We can go ahead and discuss options, or you can change your mind and not continue with your considerations. I will continue because I am interested in what my options are at this point. Well, first I can choose one with mirrors or with no mirrors. There is a lot of material that can be on the front of these bathroom wall cabinets besides mirror. Glass is a good example. Once I have decided glass, then I must ask myself whether I want an foggy glass or a clear glass; then I must consider etched or not etched.

There are other popular options considered with a bathroom wall cabinet. I like a triple door cabinet, but some people prefer one or two doors on their cabinetry. The choice is one of convenience and style. There is literally no wrong choice with this portion of the decision. Actually, there is never a wrong choice. Whatever you want, you can have.

There are usually a large array of bathroom wall cabinets at the local home improvement store as well as with many retail chains. The only limit is your imagination because even if you cannot find what you are looking for locally, you can search via the Internet. The Internet leaves a whole new shopping world at your fingertips. However, many companies will charge extra for heavy and bulky items. Make sure you understand the complete fee associated with the bathroom wall cabinet before you buy it on the Internet.

If all else fails, you can create your own. However, I am not that adventurous or brave. I choose to shop the Internet for a style that pleases me, then I shop the local market for my needs. This is not always an option and should be handled with caution. I have a tendency to spend a lot more than what I would spend on a bathroom wall cabinet when I go window shopping.

A bathroom wall cabinet is a great addition to any bathroom. However, you must proceed with caution or you will get more than you bargain for. In addition, there are so many choices that you must be prepared. A smart shopper is a happy shopper!


About The Author

Delbert Parkison has been a co-author of many cabinet making books such as “Cabinet Making Magic”. For more than 14 years, he had taught workshop classes at his local community high school. At http://www.i-furnitures.com/ , Delbert will take you through a step by step guide on how to make an ideal, space saving, and inexpensive cabinet that is right for your home.

Benefits of Tankless water heaters

By: Helaku Dyami




Though the tank water heater system has been available for years, scientists and engineers have determined that there are better ways of heating the water that you use in your everyday life. With a tankless water heater, you can enjoy the hot water that you expect without some of the hassle that you may have grown used to.

Tankless (sometimes known as on demand) water heaters do not store the hot water that you will be suing. These systems heat incoming water while it passes along a series of coils. This system allows the water heater to be much more energy efficient. Tankless water heaters are available in LP, electric, and natural gas models.

More energy efficient

A tankless water heater doesn’t use a tank to store water, so it only heats what you will need to use, when you need to use it. This allows your home energy bills to be based on what you actually use, rather than on what the water heater has decided to store in the tank. The energy factor of a tankless system is .69 to .80 while the tank system is only .52 to .59. Clearly, the tankless system design is able to perform more efficiently.

More cost effective

While the initial costs of a tankless water heater may be higher, there is additional information that you will want to consider. A tank water heater system only has a lifetime of nine years, at the very most, while a tankless water heater can last up to twenty years because of its design. The tankless water heater system also maintains an efficiency of 82% over the course of its longer lifetime, while the tank system declines each year because of mineral buildup.

More space effective and safer

With a tank water heater, you need to have a bigger tank to hold more water, but this can take up a lot of space in your home. With a tankless system, you do not need the space of the tank – there is no tank. Another concern of the tank water heater system is the fact that it can fall over in the case of an earthquake, necessitating it to be secured to the wall or floor. But the tankless water heater is fastened securely to a wall, lessening the chances of problems in the case of natural disasters and flooding. The tank water heater system is large and bulky, while the tankless system is small and light – making it easy to install too.

More sanitary

With a tank water heater, you are storing warm water until it is ready to use. However this system creates the ideal breeding ground for bacteria and other germs. With the tankless water heater system, the water is always left cold until it is ready to be heated for use – much healthier for everyone drinking or bathing in the water.

Longer lifetime

Without the worry of mineral buildup, the tankless water heater system is made to last twenty years without lessening in its efficiency. With the tank water heater, you will notice a decrease in efficiency over the much short lifespan as minerals build up from storing water in the tank.

Don’t run out of hot water again.

But what most homeowners want to know is whether they will have hot water when they need it. With the tank water heater, this isn’t something that can be easily predicted. However, with the tankless water heater system, you can always expect the water that you need at the temperature that you want.


About The Author

Helaku Dyami is a market analyst with http://www.dotankless.com . He is a specialist regarding tankless water heaters and their comparison with regular storage tank heaters, and writes extensively on the advantages of tankless hot water heaters.

Being Bright About Lighting

By: Jon Kilminster




When choosing the right lighting for you home you have to find out what type of light you would like the house to give off. If you want dim lighting then there are options for that. If you would like a brighter home then you can by more powerful lighting. The most important thing in choosing lighting for you home is to know what you want your home to look like once you have the lights in it.

Different rooms can require different light as the bathroom and kitchen are generally the brightest rooms in the house. Other rooms vary depending how you want them to look. One nice option for rooms that people gather in is a dimmer switch which can change the lighting from dim to bright depending on the situation.

When lighting your home see in the house where you want the light to be directed. Just throwing up lighting can make the house look much different than you planned. Lamps can be moved and adjusted, it is not so easy to do so with wall and ceiling mounted lighting.

The style of the lights are also important especially if they are not hidden and in plain site. The style of the lighting should go with the décor of your room, not stand out from it. It is important to do a thorough layout of what your room will look like before purchasing the light. If the room or home is already set up this is especially important as you do not want to rearrange your house because of the lighting that you thought would look good doesn’t.

There are many lighting experts out there especially at stores that specialize in lighting. Take advantage of these people and ask them questions about lighting and your home and different lighting options.


About The Author

Jon Kilminster writes for http://www.glowstall.com a website packed with http://www.glowstall.com/glowstall/index.html articles and http://www.glowstall.com/outdoor-lighting/index.html resources .