How to Attach a Zinc Frame to Stained Glass

A zinc frame on stained glass panels is essential for structure and rigidity. The zinc frame is added once the design is cut, foiled and soldered. The process of adding a zinc frame is accomplished by following seven steps.

1. First, measure the length of zinc came needed for each side.
2. Then, decide if you want straight cuts or mitered cuts for the corners.
3. Using a came saw or a fine tooth hack saw, cut the zinc came to the length and angle you need. Initially, you may want to cut the pieces long then re-cut once you dry fit the came to the stained glass piece.
4. Once you have all the zinc came cut and fitted to your piece, insert the glass into the came channels and hold zinc in place using t-pins. If you are using Handy Hangers, you would insert them into the came corners during this step.
5. Now flux the corners of the came frame and all the solder seams that touch the frame
6. Then, solder each joint of the frame and the adjacent solder seams.
7. Once, the first side is done, carefully turn the piece over and repeat the process on that side.

To apply hanging rings to the zinc frame, lightly flux the ring and the area of the frame where the ring will be attached. The area in which you attach the rings should be where the zinc frame meets a solder seam. Next, solder the rings to the zinc frame. Be sure the ring extends over the edge of the frame. If you are going to add a wood frame to the stained glass piece do not attach rings to the zinc frame.

Hanging rings can be purchased or easily made by using copper or silver wire. To make your own hanging rings, wrap wire around a pencil or other object to get the diameter you need. Then simply cut it, making a small circle. If you need stronger rings, cut two or three lengths of wire and twist them together. The twisting can be done easily by placing one end of the strands in a vice and the other end into the chuck of a drill. Rotate slowly until the desired amount of twisting is completed. Then wrap the twisted wire around a pencil or other object and cut.

After zinc frame is attached, be sure to use flux remover and remove all flux residue.

Some areas of concern:

Please note that zinc frames are available in different sizes, widths. Each one, however, laps over the edge of the glass the same amount. So, the only reason for going to a larger width is looks. Additional strength may be gathered if your stained glass piece is extremely large. Any piece over 30" wide or tall should definitely be framed in the largest size zinc frame available.

Mitered cuts look better in my opinion, especially if you are not using a wood frame. Actually miter cuts are not that much harder to accomplish, so why not be professional in the first place? Small electrical frame cutters, 2" blade, are available for around $20. This is worth it in my opinion.

When mounting frame on your art work, be sure that all edges of the glass are secured into the full depth of the zinc frame. Otherwise, you will experience dissatisfaction after you solder the pieces together. As mentioned, T-pins are suggested to be sure and hold the frame tightly anchored to edge of the glass and deep into the channel of the zinc frame.

When soldering the corners or the seam lines connecting the frame, you will see a slight rise to the solder. It is common to see the actual solder at these points, but after patina is applied, these blend together and look fine. Be careful as to not build up too much solder at these locations or this may be highly visible when finished.

After soldering the first side and then turning the art work over to solder the second side, examine the frame to see that it is in the correct position before soldering. Sometimes it can get "adjusted" when you turn the piece over.

I highly suggest the using hanging rings that have been twisted together as these are much stronger and tend not to pull apart after the art work has been hanging for some time. I have experienced single wire hooks actually failing and a piece or two has dropped and broken. Save yourself grief (take it from me) and only use the twisted, therefore stronger hanging rings.

If using a wood frame, a better look is always produced by mitering the corners of the wood. Simple 45 degree cuts on the end of all frame members easily accomplish this. When mechanically attaching these pieces of frame, I strongly suggest the use of a good carpenter's glue and one screw for long term hanging safety. Additionally, wood frames come in all sizes, including width, thickness and specie of wood. Decide how you want to finish them, paint or stain. This will enable you to use the right wood for the right job and not end up painting oak wood. Oak is too expensive and beautiful to hide under paint in my opinion. Mechanical hanging fasteners that include screws into the wood should be used.

I started out as a stained glass admirer. After a class in stained glass, I became addicted. At first I made stained glass to decorate my homes, which lead to friends asking me to make stained glass for them. Now I am a full time professional making stained glass as well as instructing others on how to make stained glass. My studio is located outside of Chicago, Illinois. For more information on making stained glass or to sign up for my newsletter, go to http://www.creativity-in-glass.com